canadian cooking: 2009

2009 – A Year of Culinary Types

Food provides nourishment and is central to our lives. But the people who grow, cook and share food are those who give it context and relevance for our sustenance and our celebrations. During 2009, the stories of “Culinary Types” reinforced how important individuals are to our understanding, enjoyment and collective appreciation of food.We started the year shopping for the Perfect Pantry item at

Merry Christmas – Wishing you Holly and Red Velvet Cake!

What could be merrier for the celebration of Christmas than a bright red layer cake decked out in snowy white icing? Red Velvet Cake is a classic Southern Retro Cake – equal parts gentility and bodacious attitude. It’s a fine finish to a day of Southern-style holiday feasting. Oddly enough, despite its popularity in the South, some sources trace the origin of the Red Velvet Cake to New

Classic Hershey Kiss Cookies and the Perils of Dreaming of a White Christmas

What happens when too many people are dreaming of a White Christmas? We get the Big One – the Nor’easter that dumps nearly 20 inches of snow across the region, cancelling flights, postponing parties and shopping plans and generally creating a frosty mess. Winter doesn’t even arrive until the 21st. Maybe we should all be dreaming of an end to climate change or the fulfillment of peace on

Christmas Time in the City

Well, I’m not doing much cooking, and at times, not even doing much eating. Things are moving faster than a sleigh drawn by eight reindeer. And, the signs of the season are everywhere in Manhattan…Walk carefully to dodge the giant Toy Soliders from outer space... As the temperature plunges, there's time for a little tapas with an old friend at Meson Sevilla on West 46th Street. The garlic shrimp

Merry, Merry Wafflemas!

What kind of chef would buy a waffle maker at an office supply store?Well, uh, that would be me …I’ve been inclined towards impulse purchases this season. After six sweaters, three DVD collections, four pairs of sox and a partridge in a pear tree, how bad is one little waffle maker, really? The price is great and one must be ready to deck the halls for that most festive season of

Remembering Nana's Apple Sour Cream Kuchen

A while back I picked up some pristine, perfectly-rounded small apples at the farmers market -- Ginger Gold, if memory serves. They shimmered with flecks of green and gold, and just a dab of pink blush.For some reason, I immediately thought of Nana's Sour Cream Apple Kuchen. I hadn't tasted it in years, but the sweet memory was still vivid - buttery apples, dusted with cinnamon and arranged in

Braising Season Opens - Braised Red Cabbage, Apples and Smoked Sausage

Forget Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. For me, the most lyrical of the seasons is the braising season. Each year, I can’t wait to start using the Dutch oven. From the first hint of a chill in the air, until the summer temperature is absolutely unbearable, the fire engine red pot holds an honored place on top of my stove.This year, the opening of braising season is marked with brilliant color and

Giving Thanks …

…for “Great Pumpkins” from Restoration Farm … … that roast into deep orange pulp …… and transform into Pumpkin Bread with Streusel Topping for Thanksgiving breakfast.Giving Thanks for an extra, Thanksgiving CSA share distribution from Restoration Farm for members who’ve already signed up for next year …There is red and green cabbage, onions, potatoes, beautiful carrots, sweet potatoes, still

A State of Schnitzel

While I was off cavorting with the food carts of Portland, Mad Me-Shell and Zany got hungry. So, they hunted down the legendary Schnitzel & Things Truck without me. You think you know who your friends are, and then they go out and stuff their faces without you.Suffice it to say, I am highly offended. I am now in the unfortunate position of being a “schnitzel neophyte,” the only person left on the

Garlic Planting at Restoration Farm and a Roasted Garlic Spread

No sooner have I pronounced “twilight” at Restoration Farm when I am reminded by Head Grower Caroline Fanning that there is plenty of activity still to come at the CSA. “With the exception of December and January, when we’re mostly hibernating, there is always something happening at the farm,” says Caroline.Indeed, for everything there is a season. While the harvest has concluded, planting has

Drop In & Decorate – 10,000 Cookies and 10,000 Smiles

Wally Amos. Debbi Fields. Lydia Walshin.The names are all synonymous with cookies. But, Lydia’s cookies have some premium ingredients and a team of bakers across the country that you’d surely want to have as neighbors.Lydia, food writer and author of The Perfect Pantry, created Drop In & Decorate based on a simple idea: bake some cookies and gather a group of family, friends, neighbors,

Twilight at Restoration Farm

The sun sets low in the sky on the 2009 growing season at Restoration Farm. The final distribution of shares has been harvested. It is Halloween morning, yet beneath the distribution tent, it looks like a Thanksgiving table. There is lots of talk about sustainable agriculture, but relatively few people get to experience its full rewards. It is really no surprise that tucked inside the word

Food and Spirits on Portland’s Distillery Row

We duck into the austere building, narrowly escaping a typical Pacific Northwest rain shower. The room is small and simply furnished. The glass display counter is framed with distressed wood and several large barrels are arranged throughout the room. A collection of what appear to be medicinal bottles neatly line one shelf. Other shelves display bottles that are tall, sleek and frosted.We are

Portland’s Food Cart Ambassador

Blogger Brett Burmeister chronicles the Porland food cart culture.This is how far my truck food obsession has gone. I’m standing on the edge of Pioneer Square in Portland, Oregon – some 2,500 miles from home – about to meet up with one of the city’s leading experts on food carts for a bite of lunch.I’ve been advised to watch for a guy who is 6’ 2” tall – with mutton chops – who goes by the

Bewitched by Voodoo Doughnut

I am a very sensible, high-fiber cereal guy. That’s my breakfast, plain and simple. Yet, on this particular morning in Portland, Oregon I am compelled to leave my lodgings at an early hour and seek out something wildly improbable for my morning meal. An irresistible, supernatural force draws me towards SW Third Avenue. I start to perspire. I feel my pulse racing. Is it witchcraft?No, it’s

Oregon Pinot Noir

My first impression of Oregon’s Williamette Valley is that the setting seems somewhat ordinary. There’s a typical interstate highway, a Dairy Queen here or there and plenty of weekend traffic congestion.But turn down a country road and the scene changes. More than 200 wineries are tucked into the surrounding hills. Garlands of shimmering green grape vines tier gently upwards, hugging the low

Potatoes! Sweet!

The harvest at Restoration Farm has taken on an autumnal hue. Heaps of sweet potatoes shine like burnished copper nuggets in the mid-morning sun. How to prepare? Savory or sweet? Sweet Potato Walnut Bread is a hearty autumn treat, scented with whole wheat, cinnamon and earthy walnuts. The sugars in the grated sweet potato caramelize as the bread bakes, creating a luscious sticky-toffee

Strange Visitors

Halloween is approaching and it’s time to revisit those spine-chilling horror film classics like War of the Worlds and Invasion of the Body Snatchers. At Restoration Farm, there has been an invasion of extraterrestrial produce. Are you ready for Attack of the Kohlrabi? Invasion of the Daikon Radish?Night of the Chinese Cabbage?We have two options, Earthlings. Run for our lives … or make

Berry Finale

As the curtain comes down on Berry Season 2009 at Restoration Farm, we present “berries baked two ways” for our final number.On stage right, is the beautiful blackberry and raspberry buckle, inspired by my friend Miss Tera who believes that the true mark of someone who appreciates food is that they go out of their way to share the experience. So she shared this recipe for her grandmother’s

Bean Stalking

Jack – of Fairy Tale fame - would have been intrigued, and would likely be lacing up his boots for a good climb. It is the last weekend of the summer at Restoration Farm - crisp, but stunningly beautiful. Some leaves are already tinged with gold, but there are hoards of vegetables still to be picked. “Go over to where the pole beans are planted and look for George,” says Head Grower Dan Holmes.

A Crostata with Raspberries from Restoration Farm

The note from Caroline at Restoration Farm says it all – “the berries are going strong right now, but their days are numbered. We don’t want you to miss out. Happy picking, and enjoy them while they’re here.”With the array of fruits that are commercially available, one can tend to forget that the natural berry season is, in fact, fleeting – a brief, shining and luscious moment in time. I

The Farmers and a Torta with Red Potatoes from Restoration Farm

I awake early on my scheduled volunteer day at Restoration Farm. It is raining steadily. My first inclination is to return to bed, but I say to myself, This is real farming. Someone still has to harvest, even when it’s raining. Dutifully, I make my way to the farm.Head grower Dan Holmes puts me to work harvesting turnips and peppers. I like picking peppers. You don’t get dirt under your

Berry Picking at Restoration Farm and Blackberry Raspberry Buttermilk Tart

It is perhaps the most anticipated edible event of the summer season, and no, it is not the premiere of Julie & Julia. The blackberries and raspberries are ready for picking at Restoration Farm.

For months, I’ve been anticipating the first picking. Everyone with a berry share has been allocated a quart of any combinations of blackberries, raspberries or ground cherries. I ramble into the berry

Casey’s Cookies – Chocolate Chip Connoisseur Makes Dough and Helps Others

There’s a lot of goodness baked into Casey Blankenship’s homemade chocolate chip cookies. Folded into each delectable batch are scores of rich, silky chocolate chips, a dash of dedication, a sprinkling of business acumen and a spoonful of public service. Casey Blankenship is an extraordinary baker – and at age 14 – he is one exceptional teenager. Each Saturday – while most of his peers are

Dawging

You heard it here first. Dawging is the next big thing.What is Dawging? Well, it’s not quite as counter-culture as raving, but it does push the culinary envelope, just a bit. Hold onto your nitrites.Our saga begins when I am sitting in Atlanta, sweating, and reading the New York Times. I bypass all the really important news and go straight to the Food Section where I learn that a new

Over-the-Rainbow Chard Pie and Sunset Dinner at Restoration Farm

Somewhere, over the rainbow, my CSA share would never end and I’d have a bounty of vegetables twelve months of the year. Ah, well, I can dream of “vegetable heaven.” In the meantime, I can bask in the bodacious and fanciful Swiss chard that proliferates at Restoration Farm. The large curly foliage resembles colossal green fans, and the stems are multi-colored. I once found these imposing

A Summer Feast, Foster Harris House-style

Blue hydrangeas embellish the table, stemware shimmers and candles flicker, casting an ethereal glow. Diane MacPherson puts a whimsical menu at each place setting and fills each wine glass with cold, crisp Sauvignon Blanc. This is the culmination of the visit to the Foster Harris House in Washington, Virginia - a singular dinner created by Chef John MacPherson, which fêtes the edible gifts

Flavor, Labor and Neighbors at The Farm at Sunnyside

Breakfast has concluded at the Foster Harris House, and John MacPherson sheds his chef whites in favor of a green tee-shirt, shorts and baseball cap. We hop in the truck and head out into the rolling hills of Rappahannock County. Chef John is putting together a special dinner and he is in search of local ingredients.We drive several miles and finally arrive at The Farm at Sunnyside, a source for

The Chef’s Canvas

A succession of rectangular plates is arranged on the counter in the kitchen of the Foster Harris House, like a gleaming mosaic of perfect white tiles.Chef John MacPherson steps back and silently considers the potential of the pristine, blank canvas for just a moment. Then - quickly and precisely - he sets to work.I have been given a backstage pass. Welcomed beyond the kitchen door of the Foster

Do I Dare to Eat a Virginia Peach?

No sooner have I entered the Foster Harris House in Washington, Virginia when I spot it – a deep straw basket delivered by a neighbor, piled high with luscious round orbs, streaked with pink, blush and gold. It has been just a few hours since I’ve departed the Big Apple, and I am confronted with a mountain of giant peaches. The Southern air is a touch sultry and the peaches simply glow with

Blueberry-Almond Granola and Memories of Acadia National Park

There are no wild blueberries on Long Island, but on Mount Desert Island in Maine they grow in abundance at Acadia National Park. Summertime inspires memories of family camping trips to Acadia, way back when. We would pile in the station wagon and make the drive in two days. How else could my parents manage four boys in the back seat of a car? (The portable DVD player had not yet been invented.)

Plum Scrumptious

Plum Clafoutis. The name has to make you smile, assuming you can even pronounce it. My ability to spell the word correctly is often challenged. But, talk about a perfect summer dessert.The clafoutis hails from the Limousin region of France and is traditionally made using whole black cherries. The cherries are placed in a buttered dish and baked in a golden batter of eggs, milk, four and

What’s Up Doc?

The mini is back. Not the mini-skirt sadly, but teeny, tiny carrots.These tender, diminutive carrots are proliferating at Restoration Farm and they couldn’t be more precious. These sunny little crunchers just make you happy. One CSA member squealed “How cute!” the minute she laid eyes on them. I decide to milk the “cute factor” for all its worth. I leave a little shock of green on the top

The Burger Truck, the Burger Babes and the Great NYC Cattle Roundup

We’ve been tracking the vehicle’s maneuvers on Twitter, but it has remained elusive. Until now.The celebrated La Cense Beef Burger Truck has been sighted in various midtown neighborhoods, but never our own. It was beginning to sound a little like the legend of Sasquatch. And, it’s been a bit frustrating to read tweets about working stiffs on Park Avenue storming the truck while those of us in

A Kalestrom

While the Northeast has been battered with rain this summer, there is a healthy “kalstrom” underway at Restoration Farm.I confess that I am a “kale convert.” It took me quite a while to warm up to some of these leafy greens. I’m pretty adventurous, but I just didn’t know what to expect. So I’d always default to what I knew. Was I missing out!Kale has an earthy, almost “meaty” flavor. I have found

A Midsummer Night’s Pizza

I dream of zucchini pizza. There’s something magical, even Shakespearean about it. Each summer I can’t wait to slice those paper thin disks of bright yellow and green and scatter them over yeasty dough. Sure, I’ll make lots of zucchini bread, and zucchini soup, but there is absolutely nothing better than dining on the deck as the sun sets and the sky turns pink, with a glass of red wine and a

LiV Vodka and Rich Stabile’s Potato Field of Dreams

Long Island’s original vodka is distilled from 100 percent potatoes.When Rich Stabile’s family summered on Long Island’s East End in the 1970s, the North Fork’s wine industry was just taking shape. But, at an early age, Rich had his eye on another iconic agricultural product – the Long Island potato.“I was always struck that there were all these potato fields and wondered, Why isn’t anyone making

Foraging in Schoharie, New York and Wild Watercress Soup

Peter Pehrson dons a baseball cap, pulls on a pair of shiny black rubber boots and removes a recycled mesh potato sack from a storage cabinet. It is time to search for ingredients for dinner.I am a complete neophyte when it comes to foraging. My innate hunter-gatherer skills consist of an aggressive “slam and shake” technique I’ve perfected when the M&Ms fail to fall out of the vending

Three Years for Culinary Types

Once upon a time, there was food.Food is the one narrative that connects us all. Culinary Types turns three-years-old today and it is my sincere hope that when you visit this place, you’ll encounter a tasty dish, an exceptional epicurean, an adventurous eater or a compelling chef, but most of all, a good story, seasoned just right.To celebrate our third anniversary together, I present a tasting

Snap, Crackle, Pop and a Restorative Broth with Soba Noodles

Restoration Farm is bursting with sweet, crisp sugar snap peas. What to do with the abundance of bright green crescents to highlight their snappy crunch that crackles with the excitement of early summer?My solution is a broth of soba noodles and fresh summer vegetables – many from Restoration Farm - that is simmered just long enough to heat the broth without sacrificing the tantalizing crispness

Street Sweets – Tailgating the Treats Truck

Sometimes, catching up with truck food is pure serendipity, like suddenly discovering an open parking space in Manhattan. Sometimes you are alerted to a truck’s “dining hours” on Twitter. And, sometimes you’re lucky to stumble upon a fleet of food trucks, parked in formation. So it happens as Mad Me-Shell and I conclude our fine dining experience at Rickshaw Dumpling Truck. There, just “two

Chasing Truck Food – Rickshaw Dumpling Truck

The fascination with truck food has reached a fevered obsession. I hear rumors of a “dumpling truck” on the streets of Manhattan and immediately head for Mad Me-Shell’s office.“We must find this mythical dumpling truck!” I insist, like some kind of addict seeking a fix.A few quick taps on her keyboard and Mad Me-Shell produces the answer – Rickshaw Dumpling Truck at 45th Street and 6th Avenue.

To the Waffle Mobile, Boy Wonder!

I spot the gleaming, canary-yellow truck returning to the office from lunch one day. There sits the renowned Waffle Mobile - right in my own neighborhood. I thought it was nothing but an urban legend.The very sight makes my pulse race. The Good Humor truck and the Book Mobile feel like prehistoric symbols of transportable goods and services. This 1968 Chevy Box truck is the real deal, bringing

The Season of Greens – First Pickup at Restoration Farm

I’ve looked forward to the day like a 4-year-old anticipates Christmas. It’s the first CSA pickup at Restoration Farm.The shimmering green lettuce entices me as I approach the distribution tent. There will be many salad days ahead. The board is precisely lettered with a list of the first yields of the season. There are tidy, beautifully-formed heads of lettuce, red kale, garlic scapes, arugula

Strawberry Ice Cream Cake

It was the ultimate request. Could I make an ice cream cake to celebrate my brother’s completion of his Master’s degree?“He will be happier than any little kid when he sees it!” my sister-in-law tells me.How could anyone deny an appeal to rejoice in adult achievement with childlike pleasure? And, he is my “little brother,” after all! We are linked by lineage and love of Carvel Ice Cream.Thus

Chinese Takeout at Home – Chicken Fried Rice

We never ordered takeout at our house when I was growing up. We were much more of a do-it-yourself style family in the kitchen. When we partook of Chinese food, it was a rare treat, and was usually enjoyed in the restaurant. I was probably well into my college years when I first experienced the vicarious thrill and immediate gratification of having food delivered directly to my door.Now, years

A Luscious Moment at Butta’ Cakes, Greenport Cupcake Factory

I have this secret fantasy. If I had the ability to choose any profession, I would love to be Cakespy. Imagine traveling the world in search of the perfect cupcake? Think of the danger, the intrigue, the icing and the extraordinary sugar highs!So, when I happened upon the just-opened “butta’ cakes” at 119 Main Street in Greenport, New York, it was like that defining moment in an Alfred

Strawberry and Goat Cheese Ricotta Crostini

I can’t quite shed my goat cheese obsession. The visit to Catapano Dairy Farm has me dreaming of simple and elegant ways to use goat cheese that will highlight it’s incredibly fresh and creamy flavor. I brought home a container of tart, almost fluffy ricotta goat cheese from Catapano Dairy Farm. Ah, what to do? Lately, I’ve been consulting “The Flavor Bible” by Karen Page and Andrew

Catapano Dairy: Commitment and Care Yield Award-Winning Goat Cheese

A seasonal spread featuring farmstead chevre goat cheese - flavored with lavender and honey - from Catapano Dairy Farm in Peconic, Long Island.It is the unofficial start of the summer season. I celebrate the glorious weather by dining outside with a delectable spread of fruit, honey, nuts, Long Island wine and goat cheese flavored with a hint of lavender and honey from Catapano Dairy Farm in

Big Apple Burger Banter – HB Burger

I’ve dubbed them the “Burger Babes.” It’s okay. I checked with Zany and Mad Me-Shell, and they love the moniker. I think they’re even getting business cards made. You may recall that some time ago, my colleagues Mad Me-Shell and Zany first came up with the scheme of checking out the best burger joints in our Manhattan neighborhood. They get to eat, offer witty commentary and I get to write it

Suburban Homestead Cheese

My sophisticated Manhattan friends - and even some who live in Brooklyn - think that I live in the boondocks. In reality, my home is only a mere 45 miles from Manhattan, but I gave up fighting their provincial perceptions a long time ago. Instead, I embrace the idea. I live in the country. I get up at dawn. And in the time-honored tradition of country life, I bake my own bread and I make

Foodbuzz Takes Manhattan

The terrific team at Foodbuzz swarmed the Big Apple this week to host an extraordinary party of New York-based food bloggers, celebrating 1 million posts for the delectable worldwide foodie community.The champagne flowed at David Burke Townhouse on East 61st Street and heads turned with each new gastronomic creation - from tingly ceviche on the half-shell to whimsical truffle pops…It was a sweet

New Roots at Restoration Farm

Bunches of Red Russian Kale sprout at Restoration Farm in Old Bethpage, NY.The rain has been endless – seemingly 40 days and 40 nights. The ground squishes as I traipse along the path at Restoration Farm, a certified organic farm at Old Bethpage, NY.Somebody told me a while back that Community Sponsored Agriculture is a bit like life. You’re constantly planting and harvesting. Indeed. The

Who Needs To Knead?

I know I’m late to this party. I mean, everyone and their brother has gotten on the “Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day” bread wagon. The book, by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois was published in 2007, after all. What can I say? I’ve been busy. “Too busy to bake,” as a colleague of mine would say.But just a few days ago, Barnes and Noble nailed me with one of those “you might like this”

Eating Like a Hipster in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

The Williamsburg Bridge serves as a kind of Yellow Brick Road gateway to the foodie enclave in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I’m not a hipster. I can barely affect “hip.” When I do, it’s usually with the frequency of leap year. I’ve heard legends of Williamsburg, but I always thought it was a colonial theme park in Virginia. Thankfully, there are people who can set me straight. Enter my college

Eric Steinman’s Edible Hudson Valley: Chronicling the Story of a Food Region

Eric Steinman (right), editor of the magazine "Edible Hudson Valley," talks with Don Lewis, owner of Wild Hive Café in Clinton Corners, New York.New York’s Hudson Valley region has a deep legacy of agriculture, legends and storytellers. In 1819 author and essayist Washington Irving published The Sketch Book which includes “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow and “Rip Van Winkle.” Irving used descriptive

Fashionable Food Forecast

I'm going to make an important fashion prediction. While it might not affect how you dress, it will certainly affect what you eat. Now, I don’t typically dabble in fickle fashion trends. I tend to favor the classics, myself. But, here goes …I predict that the Brownie is the new Black.Now you may not have had any inkling of this the last time the fashionistas descended on New York City, but I'm

Announcing the Winner of the Foster Harris House Cookbook Giveaway!

Congratulations to Brilynn of Jumbo Empanadas who is the winner of the random drawing for the Foster Harris House Cookbook! Brilynn says her favorite breakfast is Eggs Benedict with a side of Smoked Salmon, and she'll have lots more tasty options for breakfast when the cookbook is delivered to her. Brilynn, please contact me at twbarritt@culinarytypes.com to provide me with shipping information.

What I Didn’t Bake for Easter and Spaghetti with Shaved Asparagus

I had great plans for Easter. I was going to bake one of those ridiculously sweet, fluffy coconut layer cakes to herald the arrival of spring. But, I’ve been felled by a wicked sinus infection. You know what they say about the best laid plans of mice, men and bakers. At this point, my only responsibility for Easter dinner is to show up, which is not the worst thing in the world, given how

A “Foster Harris House Cookbook” Giveaway – Recipes, a Memoir and a Visual Feast

Every cookbook tells a story. Rarely is a collection of recipes simply an instruction manual. The life experiences, family connections and personal passions of the creator flavor every ingredient, measurement, technique and photo. In total, a cookbook is a very personal bequest – a delicious meal wrapped in memories and seasoned with a collection of unforgettable experiences.The debut of the

The Power of Polenta

I’m eating down my pantry, and while the box of Instant Polenta hiding in the back of the cupboard isn’t quite 400 years old, maize was cultivated in Italy beginning in the 16th century. But, the venerable history of corn mush wasn’t quite the motivation – I’m trying to use up those staples that are crowding the pantry as I prepare for the influx of fresh garden vegetables that will soon fill

Sophia Garden Awakes and Spring Pea and Tarragon Soup Cocktail

I plunge my hands into my pockets and shiver as I stand at the periphery of a large, fallow vegetable patch at Sophia Garden. It has been a chilly, wet morning and there is only a smattering of volunteers milling about. The organic garden has been slumbering for many months but will shortly stir again, yielding some 35 different kinds of vegetables.Long ago a poet wrote, “To every thing there is

Mr. President – Yes We Can Enjoy Roasted Beets and Goat Cheese Gratin!

Dear President Obama,I fear that you are about to find yourself embroiled in a controversial issue and I want to help you. You’ve got enough on your plate already. Do you remember when the first George Bush stated unequivocally that he hated broccoli? Do you remember the uproar, the days of negative press and the scores of elementary school children who felt completely justified in turning up

Advice from the Kitchen GadgetGal

There’s at least one, lurking in a dark corner or recess of every kitchen – a slightly embarrassing reminder of the home cook’s irrepressible desire for miracle solutions, or proclivity for impulse-buying. They are the disappointing, the underperforming, or just-plain-dumb kitchen gadgets and appliances. We all buy them, and eventually we all toss them, or quietly donate them to junk sales. Yet,

Lamb Two Ways and Cooking Like My Grandmother

At the risk of losing you, I begin with the punch line.The dish you see pictured above is … leftovers!!! (Cue frightening organ music)It may be nicely dressed up as a Savory Lamb Pie, but it is leftovers nonetheless. Only the pastry crust is new.In the 80s, the contents might have been tossed. In the 90s they might have gone to the compost pile. In 2009, leftovers are now the “it” weeknight

American Irish Soda Bread and Who Is Erin, Anyway?

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day! Back in 1983 I kissed the Blarney Stone. Shortly after, I got my first job in public relations. That one big wet kiss has served me well in both my professional and personal life. Yet with all that loquacious luck at my disposal, I’ve always been at a loss to explain the phrase “Erin Go Bragh.” So, as I take this piping hot Irish Soda Bread out of the oven in honor of

Armchair Culinary Travel - Roast Pork Loin with Turkish Spice Blend

My friend Doug has a versatile approach to cooking. He is equally at home preparing a succulent, rosemary-scented roast leg of lamb, or a piping-hot pan of Rice Krispie Treats. It’s kind of a "Barefoot Contessa meets Betty Crocker" take on the kitchen. At times, his “Three Faces of Eve” culinary personae can be confounding. “You don't have to spend a lot of money to eat well,” Doug tells me

Big Apple Burger Banter – The Perfect Pint

My culinary compatriots, “Ms. Zany” and “Mad Me-Shell” are at it again. One day while I’m not paying attention they concoct a scheme to visit and rate the best burger joints in our midtown office neighborhood. I’ve been on a month-long peanut butter and fluff kick for lunch, so it sounds like a good idea to me.Our colleague “Splint McCullough” chimes in from his secret bunker somewhere in the

Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake and Remembering

Rarely a day goes by that I don’t think of my 2006 culinary tour of Italy. I was on sabbatical with no business pressures, and had weeks to immerse myself in the culture, history and ingredients of Bologna, Tuscany and Florence. It was certainly a life-affirming and life-changing experience, particularly in my understanding of how history, ingredients, agriculture, locale and family all

Pancake Pandemonium

I should know I’m in for trouble when Cousin Steve starts suggesting menus and/or blog posts. Cousin Steve is a talented graphic artist whose culinary skills consist of ordering takeout. “Tuesday is International Pancake Day,” he informs me. “Shouldn’t you be covering this?” Hmm. Was that an ulterior motive that just smacked me on the side of the head? That’s OK. I’m a pushover when it

Martha at the Y

It is a well-appointed crowd that has turned out to hear an intimate conversation with Martha Stewart at the 92nd Street Y. The segment is part of the Y’s “Captains of Industry” program. The doyenne of domesticity appears on stage looking classically elegant in a black suit and pearls. It is a carefully-controlled production. No pictures allowed (drat!) and questions must be submitted to the

A Luncheon for President’s Day 2009

As one explores the culinary legacy of George Washington and Abraham Lincoln, you quickly discover that these two great men had very different appetites and attitudes about food. Born to the landed gentry, Washington was well acquainted with the pleasures of the table. According to “The President’s Table” by Barry H. Landau (Collins, 2007), dinners and banquets were compulsory events for

Cousin Meg’s Big Heart (Cake)

This is probably the closest I’ll ever come to writing a Valentine’s Day post. I’m hardly a fool for love, and Valentine’s Day doesn’t rank in my top 10 holidays. Actually, it’s right there at the bottom of the list along with Arbor Day. But this story has chocolate, a slightly-warped spring form heart, and a healthy serving of generosity. And, it’s a good example of how love can come in

Carrots on the Dark Side

The flash of color is reminiscent of a grape lollipop and immediately catches my attention against the stark, white snowscape of the Union Square Greenmarket. At first … it strikes me as bizarre … as if the Joker has transformed all the carrots within Gotham City into a maniacal shade of lavender, simply to appease his twisted sense of humor. Holy Bugs Bunny, Batman!! Purple carrots?? A

Tales of the Magic Pan - Dutch Baby Pancake

“How do you keep the music playing? How do you make it last? How do you keep the song from fading too fast?” croon Patti Austin and James Ingram. We’ve all been there. The relationship is flush with a sense of newness and wonder – pulsing with anticipation and excitement. Then, somewhat unexpectedly, a certain routine sets in. Your phone messages are no longer returned, and you find your

Tales of the Magic Pan – Mushroom Paella

I wasn’t really looking to get entangled with another frying pan. At the risk of appearing to blame yet another impulse purchase of mine on my mother, I probably wouldn’t have considered it, if Mom had not mentioned the big sale. But, it barely takes a nudge for me to buy another kitchen item. No willpower. The minute I laid eyes on it, there was no mistaking the magic. The brilliant

Birthday Cupcakes

The one consistent symbol I associate with birthdays is frosted cupcakes. Mom would bake a batch that would be transported to elementary school in a foil-lined box to be shared with the entire class on my special day.Now, several decades later, I don’t have to go to school on my birthday. In fact, I can take the day off if I want to. Adulthood has its perks.So I devote a full 24-hours to me. It

Community is Key Ingredient in Lydia’s Perfect Pantry

Her Rhode Island pantry is legendary, stocking more than 240 items. When you meet her, she is warm, generous, direct, at times uncompromising, and always keenly insightful. With all that going on, one’s inevitable first question feels a bit like a cliché – Why is food blogger Lydia Walshin so preoccupied with her Perfect Pantry?It began when she and her husband Ted moved to a cozy log cabin in

A Guy, a Pie and a Fistful of Corn Chips

Some folks spend years perfecting a signature dish. You might even say that the signature dish is a window into a home cook’s psyche. For example, there’s my pal Mary’s hot and sassy Penne a la Vodka, or the international panache of my buddy Rocky’s Paella. And, don’t get me started on Mad Me-Shell’s slow-simmered, “I can handle anything with the greatest of ease,” Pulled Pork with Bourbon

Peruvian Fare in Fog City

We all have our hazy moments, and our moments of intense clarity.I have often wondered why – beyond the weather -- San Francisco has been dubbed “Fog City.” Perhaps the heyday of Haight-Ashby had something to do with it. Yet every time I visit, there is that moment of intense clarity. The city sits in sharp relief against the skyline. The brilliant clang of the cable car is heard. The

Curried Carrot Ginger Soup as Winter Cloaks the North Fork

The pace has slowed considerably. There are still signs of yuletide greenery and lights, and there is even evidence of snow, but there is a welcomed sense of solitude on the North Fork of Long Island.At Bayview Market and Farms on Route 25 a handwritten sign says “Closing Jan 4 for the Season.” The ornamental winter kale is nestled in a frosty blanket of white.Yet, inside there are still bins

More New Year’s Mixology – The Gin and Fresca Cocktail

At the risk of convincing you that I’ve reverted to a diet of smart, sophisticated cocktails, I simply couldn’t let the old year pass away without a sip of the Gin and Fresca Cocktail. You didn’t think I would forget this one, did you, Lydia? It all began with a bit of a challenge, or perhaps a campaign, to secure the rightful place of Fresca in Lydia’s Perfect Pantry. Fresca clearly has shelf

Happy New Year and Cheers – I’ll Take Manhattan!

My friend “Lee Sloan” is a Grand Dame of food and wine. She recently shared this story of a conversation in a fashionable New York City restaurant: “I asked a waiter at A Voce the other night if the restaurant was experiencing a downturn in customers as a result of the downturn in the economy. He said the customers were still coming but they were eating less and drinking more. God Bless America